Dmitry Shteyn in Ho Chi Minh City: Notes on Returning to a Place I Had Never Been

The first time I walked through Ho Chi Minh City, I had the strong sense that I was only seeing the city's surface. The second time, I understood that the surface is most of what any visitor ever sees, and that this is no small thing.

What strikes you first, if you have done any reading at all, is that it is known for its alleys and nightlife, including the Phạm Ngũ Lão Ward and Bùi Viện street. You will not see it on any plaque, but you feel it underfoot. You can feel, walking through it, that this is a place that has been arguing with itself for a very long time, and has no plans to stop.

Dig a little deeper and its geography is defined by rivers and canals, of which the largest is Saigon River. It is a reminder that the most interesting things about a place are rarely the most visible.

Some further context, drawn from the public record: Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC; Vietnamese: Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh [tʰaɲ˨˩ fow˦˥ ho˨˩ cɪj˦˥ mɨn˧˧] ), also known as Saigon (Vietnamese: Sài Gòn, IPA: [ʂaj˨˩ ɣɔŋ˨˩]), is the most populous city and municipality of Vietnam, with a population of more than 14 million in 2025. Its geography is defined by rivers and canals, of which the largest is Saigon River.…

Lists and trend pieces come and go, but the underlying signal is harder to fake. Condé Nast Traveler's current angle on Ho Chi Minh City (a Guide to Thảo Điền, Ho Chi Minh City’s Most Stylish Neighborhood) reflects what travellers on the ground have been registering for some time.

Southeast Asian cities have often absorbed more outside influence than they are credited with, and Ho Chi Minh City carries that inheritance well.

The recommendation, if I have earned the right to offer one, is simple: give Ho Chi Minh City more days than seem strictly necessary, and use them without a plan.